The Charm of Tuscan Villas

I have recently traveled to Tuscany, and what stroke me most about it was the splendid yet simple architecture of some of its rural houses.

My tour brought me in the provinces of Siena, Florence and Lucca. While the latter area hosts many upscale properties, especially near the town of Bagni di Lucca, I liked best the stone wall rural houses. Those sun-baked walls surrounded by quiet, lovingly tended to gardens with blossoming flowers and bees hopping from roses, to dandelions, to fluffy geraniums talked to me of old people sitting outside, working the fields, enjoying the simple things in life. How peaceful it made me feel!

Nowadays the majority of even the most rustic villas and farmhouses in Tuscany have been remodeled to be some of the best properties you can find in Italy. Their interiors are as charming as the outdoors. Villa owners really put a lot of love and a great deal of effort into making these homes the perfect nest to live everyday.

Most villas I have visited featured handmade, originally Tuscan style furniture from the past century. The walls of the kitchen displayed a nice set of utensils that were once of everyday use, but are now some kind of beautiful domestic economy dinosaur to be just admired. Will there ever be a time I own a villa in Tuscany?

My heart skipped a bit when I visited a very old farmer house with one of those sit-in fireplaces. Those are really huge and can fit several people inside. Their purpose was to accommodate the fire, the cooking pot hanging from a chain over live ambers, and two benches, one on each side of the fire, to welcome family members and neighbors. They would just sit there telling stories, or doing some little manual work. It was the most peaceful time of the day, in the warmest place of the house. They would build up some heat before going to their bedrooms where there was no heating. I would so love a villa in Tuscany like that! I would light up my fire every night in winter, and although I might not sit inside all the time, I'd love to get people to come over and have a nice chat by the fire.

Tuscan villas will always hold a special place in my heart. I do really hope I will be able to live in one some day!

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Italy Eco Friendly Aperitif: Sugheritivo

Since 2011 there is an interesting news regarding aperitifs in Italy. It is the sugheritivo!

Aperitif is a very popular dolce-vita-style moment of the day in Italy. After a day at work, and before returning home for dinner, Italians often stop at bars, wineries, and cocktail bars to have a drink munching on something while entertaining into pleasant conversations with friends and coworkers. It is a very old tradition in Italy, so much that Crivel, an Italian composer and songwriter, in 1932 wrote the song "L'Ora del Campari", or "It's Time for Campari", the still nowadays very popular vermouth. The song states that after a tedious day at work finally the liberating time of Campari has come!

In recent years aperitifs were transformed into more substantial food events with elaborated appetizers of all kinds, so much that they started to be called aperi-dinners! By the way, if you are out and about an Italian city, and do not feel like returning to your hotel for a dinner or going to some restaurant, you can stop and have a quite inexpensive flat fee aperi-dinner, usually lasting until 11 PM. The average price is 5 euros per person.

What is the sugheritivo? You could translate it into aperi-cork. Cork wood is indeed at the center of this new eco-friendly trend. After the new silicon corks entered the market with clear intents to replace the more expensive cork wood, producers and consumers discovered the poor quality of silicon. Moreover, silicon is impossible to recycle and does not degrade for millenniums. Cork wood is much better for wine. It allows the bottle to "breathe" allowing gradual air exchange and fosters the good aging of wine. Most importantly, cork is 100% recyclable, and can be utilized in many ways. Plus, regions such as Sardinia live on cork woods producing tons of this precious material each year and allowing these trees to continue a healthy life.

When going to aperi-corks, or sugherivo, bring along a bottle cork, and you will receive a free glass of wine. Corks will then be recycled appropriately. And remember, usually mistrust wine bottles with silicon corks. That is the first hint you may be drinking cheap wine.

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Pictures of Italy

Some pictures of Italy: Rome, Sardinia, Florence, Tuscany, Sicily, Cremona, the Alps, Genoa, Urbino, Matera, Umbria, Monteriggioni are displayed below. You can play at recognizing these landmarks, or just admire their beauty. Enjoy!

Click on them, they are quite large in full view.

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The Last Glass of Wine

It does not have anything to do with Italy, or maybe, somehow, it does.
Amy Winehouse died today, and this saddened me. I am not a big fan of her, and I personally could do without with all this Sixties revival.

So why am I writing about this? Simply because this 27 years old girl died in a way that shows a life of suffering, lots of it. I am sure a lot of people die after suffering. I do not know them, but I knew Amy Winehouse because she was famous, and so do you. So I am writing about this.

I have no idea why these kids become famous and then trash themselves to death. Kurt Cobain did the same, like others. Their solitude becomes amplified after becoming famous. Everyone thinks that fame and money give felicity and human warmth.

Massimo Troisi, an Italian actor and director that you may remember for the movie Il Postino, The Postman, once said that fame only amplifies your character: if you are stupid you just become extremely stupid, if you feel left alone, you just become terribly lonely. It seems easy to see how someone not equipped with a strong personality may lose touch with reality when surrounded by people relating to them only for profit an business.

I don't know her story. I don't care if Amy Winehouse has had a tear-jerking life prior to becoming famous, or was just a spoiled child of rock. To see suffering makes me think. Walking the streets and seeing the poster of her only Italian date in Lucca on July 17, canceled for health reasons shortly before it was to happen, saddens me even more.

The last glass ow wine goes to her, toasting to fragility in a world that consecrates porcelain icons on high altars of incredible instability. So they generate more attention and money when falling and crashing down.

PS: A few days after Amy Winehouse death I am walking around and I see tourists taking pictures besides her poster advertising her only Italian concert, which was supposed to be in Lucca on July 17, but never happened. I see adults and kids posing besides her picture, and also see people taking pictures of just the poster. I guess it is a way to grasp the last pieces of her "alive", before time deletes all everyday signs of her, inescapably confining her into the realm of the dead.

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Transportation News in Italy

There are some nice and important news for those that will be moving around in Italy in the future. Whether you are coming to live in Italy (as I did), or are just visiting, you should be aware of them. Some are temporary changes for the summer, some other are transportation laws that are here to stay.

Let's start with the summer news. If you are moving around inside Italy using a train, the Italian train authority decided to increase the number of fast train availability with 16 more trains each day. The Freccia Rossa, this is the name of the high velocity trains in Italy, will provide 16 more high speed connections throughout the territory in order to supply a more efficient and comfortable traveling experience during the high affluence summer months.

Now the laws that are here to stay, which only interest those that will be driving inside Italy. You should know that jaywalking (illegal or reckless pedestrian street crossing) is not a crime in Italy, and now even the less so. Beware of pedestrians at traffic lights, as if you hit one even when pedestrians have the red light, you will be held fully responsible. Does it make sense? Probably not, it may in some cases, however you just need to know it, so keep it in mind.

Another new law (this time in your favor) states that when you are driving on a road and hit a wild animal the responsibility is not upon you but on who is in charge of the maintenance of that specific road. Remember to make your rights heard.

Those that will be, or already are, living in Florence, Tuscany and have children going to school and driving motorcycles, should know that the city of Florence will give away free helmets to all high school students in Florence.

Finally some good news on in-town transportation. Bike sharing in Italy is among the booming phenomena that in recent years has brought average national bike usage from 2% to 9%. Legambiente, the national NGO promoting a series of behaviors for a sustainable lifestyle, provides the ten rules a city must follow for an efficient and successful bikesharing experience.

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Matera's Sassi

Matera is in Basilicata in the Southern part of Italy. It is famous for its cave-town with houses built in the stone walls of rocky hills. These houses are called Sassi (stones). When you get on the spot is like being in the most classic nativity scene, and observing the beautiful Paleolitic age houses you realize their hut-like appearance adds to the fascination of this unique setting.

These houses are still inhabited, but have not always been famous. There was a time they were considered an infamous state of living symbol. The poorest people lived here, not even the faith in God had reached these places up to not long ago. Animals and people lived in these cave houses together. Up to the first half of the 20th century there was no sewage or other basic hygienic measures.
Finally the government relocated the people in new housing little far away.

Came 1993 and UNESCO declared them a world heritage site, increasing Matera's popularity in the world. Many houses are not standing the toll of time after abandonment, but many have been restored and transformed into homes, restaurants and hotels.

To have a splendid view of these stone cave houses visit the so-called Belvedere opposite the Sassi. Dusk is the best time to enjoy the sight, with the red sun melting the contours of the rocks and exalting the profile of the cathedral above the city. A first glance of this spectacle and you immediately imagine epic battles and scenes of ancient life.

Trivia:
Actually, there is a famous movie that was shot here. Do you know which one? The first three to to write the correct reply in the comments get a special mention!

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Godfather Movie Sets in Sicily

Godfather movie fans all over the world are always eager to see what the real places where the movies were shot look like. Whether you are a moviegoer, a Godfather trilogy fan or just saw the movies, this is going to be interesting. Let alone that Mafia is a totally different thing nowadays from what the movies portray (including the Sopranos). Some details still apply, but mostly that is a romantic portray of reality.

I have no understanding for those fascinated with Mafia. Again, forget about movies. Feeling in constant instability cancels your right to live. No white dresses or "gessato" style. Just nitty-gritty, plain-old street muggers with dirty looks and no style. This is Mafia. Stay out.

But of course you do not run in Mafia at every street corner, and even if you at times do, you won't even realize. Just do not go looking for it!
So visit Sicily safely anjoying its beauties.

If you are a Godfather nostalgic, Corleone is the first epic city for you. The family name bound to it says it all. The Corleonesi Mafia clan does really exist.
Corleone is an extremely pretty town you should visit. You will forget the Mafia ugliness while just walking through its monument rich streets.

The movie set are Forza d'Agrò and Savoca, near the wonderful Taormina. Visit all three, but expect Taormina to be the most touristic one. However, its beauty deserves your time.
This is the wedding church in Savoca.

In Savoca go to Bar Vitelli, where a scene of the movie was shot.

Again, do not expect to see gangsters in the streets, but your passion for the Godfather will surely lead to know the true, unforgettable and unexpected face of Sicily.

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Sicilian Cassata

Looking for the Sicilian Cassata recipe?

As I found on http://www.academiabarilla.com/italian-recipes/step-step-recipes/cassata-siciliana.aspx, among the many regional Italian recipes Cassata is a typical Sicilian dessert with a long history and flavorful. It is a medium difficulty recipe, guided step by step. In no time you can learn to prepare this crown jewel of Italy and Sicily.
This dessert is more for winter days, during which you can achieve a better preparation of it. Moreover, it is a rich recipe that will give more nutrients during colder months.

Grab a baking pan of 7 to 8 inches in size. Here the ingredients: 5 oz marzipan, 1 lb ricotta cheese, 7 oz confectioners sugar, 3 ½ oz candied fruit, 3 oz chocolate drops, ⅛ oz vanilla, 3 ½ oz dark chocolate, melted, 5 oz sponge cake, 3 ½ tablespoons of Rum.

For the icing you will need 5 oz sugar and 1 egg white and 3 ½ oz candied fruit to garnish.

Using a rolling pin flatten the marzipan to a thickness of 4 millimeters.
Now dust the pan using powdered sugar and use a knife to line up the border of the marzipan with that of the pan. Prior to cutting make sure the dough adheres perfectly to the pan.
Smolder the chocolate at bain-marie, then use a brush to spread it over the marzipan.
Now cut thin stripes of sponge cake and use them to line the marzipan. Then use a brush to spread half the rum on the sponge cake.
Now mix in a bowl the ricotta, sugar, chocolate drops, candied fruit, and vanilla.
Spread the filling inside the mold.
Now cover up with the remainder sponge cake then brush with the remainder rum.
Prepare the glaze whisking together sugar and egg white, then remove the cassata from the oven pan and glaze it uniformly. Chill in the fridge for an hour then add the candied fruits to garnish.

That's it! You Have your Cassata! A passito di Pantelleria goes along with it just perfectly.

Here the pictures of the procedure:

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Touring Rome

If you are traveling to Rome then you need to take into account several aspects. The first thing is to plan right, then you'll have a fantastic time in what is the most amazing locations of the world. You must plan your means of transportation to get there, how long you want to stay, the hotel where to stay, what to visit, and other things. If you want a fantastic journey in Rome, you need a clever planning.

How to get to Rome
Rome can be reached many ways. You may fly in to Fiumicino or to Ciampino airports. Fiumicino is much better serviced though, and you will get a train directly into town. Cheaper flights get to Ciampino, which does have a shuttle bus to Rome.

Transportation inside the Italian capital
If a car rental worries you, or you drove in with your car, then you may use public transportation, leaving your car at a long stay parking lot. Buses, trams, subway, and taxis provide for plenty of alternatives to your car and relieve you from worries. Green buses are a great transport in Rome. During the night there are more than 20 lines running the city. Taxis are also a good option, and they can also be used as tour guides for an extra charge. They know the spots you should not miss and are to be trusted.

Accommodations in Rome
A huge city such as Rome offers hundreds of places to stay at for all budgets. If you go the traveled booking route, you will get more expensive hotels, but if you put in some effort you can get better deals. Among the places to consider are the Westin Excelsior Rome in Via Veneto, and is considered a kind of monument. Or the Baglioni, again in Via Veneto, near Piazza di Spagna. Finally the Hotel Albani is in the Parioli area, set in a place to remember.

What to do in Rome
Rome offers plenty to see. Needless to say, you can spend a month visiting and just see a glimpse of it all. The cornerstones are St. Peter’s Basilica plus the Vatican. Then you have the Roman Forum, the Colosseum, and the Palantine Slope. The history of this city is unbelievable, rich of well preserved Roman architecture.

A better way to enjoy the archaelogic sites of Rome is by purchasing the Roma Archeologica card, including a series of historic locations throughout Rome that are must see. The card will give you access to the Colosseum, Palatino and also Palatino Memorial, the Normal Roman Museums, Terme Di Caracalla, Cecilia Metella, plus the Villa Dei Quintili. Must-see museums are Palazzo Altemps, Palazzo Massimo, Terme di Diocleziano, and also the Cripta Balbi.

Rome Shopping
Looking to just relax and walk around doing some serious shopping? Then you must go to Piazza di Spagna and Spanish Scalinata. This section of Rome literally bursts with all kinds of shops, bars, restaurants, and markets. These are very characteristic of the city and should be visited. Just remember that this is the reign of pickpockets, so keep your values tight.

Rome deserves several days to be appreciated. Do not commit the mistake to go for a daytrip, as you will just be exhausted, confused, and hungry, trading good food for the first tourist joint at hand. You will hate it! Plan ahead instead. Choose your places in advance, then go straight to the point, and always remember to leave some space for the unforeseeable and unexpected, which is the zest of life!

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My Take on the Palio of Siena

The Palio of Siena on July 2 was run after a long day of heavy downpour that almost flooded the city and turned the Piazza del Campo into an enormous sludge field. So much water threatened to make it impossible for the Palio be run on that day. It would have been quite tragic for many tourists that usually book until the very day of the Palio and leave the day after. This did not happen and everyone could enjoy the Palio. In this edition, however, there was an event that cast a shadow over the event. It was something quite different from last year's accident that saw a French tourist killed by a piece of stone that detached from a terrace during a dinner. However, it was quite just as dramatic. During one of the test runs a horse hit a stone post at one corner of Piazza del Campo injuring itself to death and overthrowing the jokey that reported minor consequences.
This of course brought up strong protests by animal rights organizations.

While I think what happened is a tragic accident that should be avoided at all costs, I also do not feel that the Palio of Siena should stop as a consequence of similar accidents. However, some things should be changed. For example these marble posts should be equipped with some serious shock absorption system, not visually offensive or cumbersome for horses. Moreover, it is a tradition for jockeys to be held free of any responsibility on their doings, especially in case of accidents such as the one in question. I think that since they are paid dearly by the "contrade" that engage them, they should be held responsible for such errors, especially during such an unimportant event as a test run, which has none of the tremendous tension and heat of the Palio race. If a driver has to pay for its misbehavior, why should a jockey be any different? This would make them more cautious for sure. Remember that these guys are the equivalent of extreme sports champions, since they run with silk trousers over an unsaddled sweaty horse zipping at full speed through a narrow cornered path flanked by little or no protection whatsoever. If you expect them to be cautious for their own sake, forget about it!

I do agree that the Palio should do anything to avoid animals any suffering, but at the same time much was done, especially thanks to protesters in favor of animal rights, such as the institution of a residence for injured horses that can continue to graze although not able to run anymore. Moreover, these occurrences are quite rare, fortunately. Much more effort should be put into completely obliterating commercial animal races (horses, dogs, etc.) that are tied to pure economic return and massacre thousands of young animals at the first sign of weakness or minor injury. The Palio is bound to a long history and tradition, and a horse is given maximum respect, and hailed as a hero when victorious.

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Children Travel Free in Italy

Just a quick post on this great news. Trenitalia, the Italian train company, offers summer discounts to travelers during July and August 2011. One of the best offers is free travels to all children under 12 that are accompanied by an adult (which should always be the case). This discount applies to groups from 2 to 5 people, so an adult with 4 kids is the only passenger to pay the fare.

There are other great discounts during the same period, such as Freccia Rossa and Freccia Argento discounts (one million discounted tickets between July and August) are offered online by selecting this option. Moreover, on Saturdays two people travel at the price of one on Freccia Rossa (July and August only).

Hope this will help your travels through Italy! Visit http://www.trenitalia.com/offers for more info and other train travel discounts.

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