Christmas in Italy

Christmas in Italy has already changed a lot during the years. Many years ago there was no Christmas tree tradition, and a nativity scene was the only thing that was done. For some reasons, maybe the pro-American feelings that undoubtedly pervade the whole country, or maybe because is an easier decoration to prepare, the tree has become one of the most poignant Christmas images in Italian peninsula. Nowadays in Italy you most often find a nativity scene besides a Christmas tree.

Spending Christmas in Italy means to discover many traditions of the past, mostly tied to the countryside and the Catholic religion. These Holidays are paced by the various religious and pagan festivities that chase each other and come to a conclusion with Epiphany on January 6. Today is Saint Stephen, an it's a holiday. New year's eve and January 1st are also holidays. The greater majority go to work during the days in between these festive days, however some take vacation days to have a long weekend. Schools in Italy close on December 23 and open again on the first school day after January 6.

Epiphany is a small Christmas for children. It is a festivity tied to when the three wise kings arrived to Bethlehem to adore the newborn Jesus. Indeed epiphany means revelation. In this day Italians hang a stocking at the fireplace and await the arrival of Befana to fill them up with candies and small presents for good kids, and charcoal for bad kids. Befana is the name of the old and ugly lady that comes flying on a broomstick to distribute presents to kids. She embodies this festivity since the legend tells that when the wise kings knocked on her door asking for the direction to Bethlehem, she helped them, but refused to join their journey as she was busy with home chores. She later regretted it, and after gathering some presents for baby Jesus she immediately started chasing after the wise kings. But no matter how hard she looked for them, she was unable to find them. So she decided to look for baby Jesus in each house where there was a new born, and leave a present to each one in case that was going to be the one.

Italians are also very traditional, and never fail to celebrate Christmas with their family. They have a saying "Natale coi tuoi, Pasqua con chi vuoi", Christmas with your family, Easter with whomever, which gives the sense how this festivity is much more felt than Easter. Sometimes it is hard to stay with your and your spouse's family. Therefore Italians employ Christmas Eve as a good occasion to stay with one side of the family, spend Midnight there, which is officially Christmas, then the next day is spent with th eother side of the family.

There is little moving around during these festivities, as the majority stay at home. Some use these days as a holiday period, visiting the Alps or seaside localities with thermal spots such as Ischia. But this is not typically Italian. Therefore if you want to visit Italy after Christmas day, you will find quiet cities, especially on the 26. The days approaching New Year's Eve are a little busier, but calm is soon restored on January first until the Befana.

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Comacchio, The Small Venice

Comacchio is the most original and fascinating historical center of the mouth of the Po river. Its history is inextricably linked to the flourishing of activities such as fishing, lagoon fish breeding, processing of sugar cane and the production of salt, which is still well developed. Its hallmark is the Trepponti bridge in addition to other important monuments such as the San Cassiano cathedral, the Portico of the Capuchins and the ancient Sanctuary of Santa Maria in Aula Regia.

Comacchio is also called the small Venice, because the city was founded on the canals of the mouth of Po River Park, famous for the Lidi of Comacchio, which are very busy in summer.
But apart from the sea and the beauty of Emilia Romagna near Ferrara, Comacchio is a town to be discovered, even while surfing through the canals of the islands that comprise it.

Places of interest
Trepponti - This is the symbol of Comacchio, five large staircase on the channels that accommodate the passing tourists.

Bellini Building - This building is located near the Bridge of Sbirri and is a large building that houses the Art Gallery and many temporary exhibitions

Cathedral of Comacchio - In Piazza XX Settembre, is the Cathedral of St. Cassian, cathedral city

Clock Tower - This tower is one of the main monuments of the city and is located in the beautiful Piazza Ugo Bassi

Excursions and tours
There are many possible itineraries and excursions in Comacchio, but one that I recommend is the boat ride on the "Batana" (typical boats of the area). To take advantage of this free service, you must go to the docks in front of the old fish market.
Do not forget the itineraries of Comacchio on foot, by bicycle or by boat ride on the Po mouth.

Another important excursion that you have to take into consideration is the former saline extraction facilities. Large portions of salt lagoon that were abandoned and are now the safe landing for a community of hundreds Flamingos. These spectacular birds started populating the area after all salt extraction work ceased, which gave the area the deep serene and quiet character that Flamingos need to live and thrive.

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Trieste Guide

Trieste is one of the most beautiful Italian cities. It is spectacularly placed in front of the sea, nestled foothills. The beautiful nineteenth century buildings that line the waterfront testify to a past of great maritime traffics with the Austro-Hungarian Empire. Trieste has always been, and still is, a frontier town, both culturally and geographically: Slovenia is not far from the Carso heights leading there, and from where the Bora wind sweeps the city.

It is the capital of Friuli Venezia Giulia with about 210,000 inhabitants. Trieste is a fascinating and aristocratic city. It is the last city of northeast Italy, the extreme southern part of Central Europe, the first city in the new Europe at the same time. The three notations enable us to understand a rich fabric of history, art and culture linked to the world of technology and scientific research, and to nature that here shows only some of its most fascinating phenomena.

Really, you can not understand Trieste at a glance. Viewed from the sea, it appears in a semicircle between the promontory of St. Andrew, where the lantern rests, and Ripa. The bank is barricaded by a long row of houses and buildings. The row is interrupted by a flight of streets that are lost within the city. Only toward the Portonuovo, between two rows of buildings, the Grand Canal opens a hole in the heart of the city for about 300 meters, forming one of the most characteristic spots of Trieste: the casual walker is startled by the sudden view of ships in the middle of the city, unexpectedly appearing to those coming off the main street going into the Pontegrosso, Canal Grande, and the likes.

At the bottom of the canal stands a Roman-style church, St. Anthony, beside the church of the Greek schismatics, St. Spyridon in purely Byzantine style. Viewed from the sea, therefore, Trieste appears almost tiny. Two hills, springing from the heart of the city, San Giusto and San Vito, make believe here are two possible limits to the city. On the contrary, after climbing those two hills, the city rushes to occupy the valleys that open behind, fending a new assault on to other flanking hills, then continuing to grow between walls of rock, and the jolly vegetable gardens and groves. Therefore, there never is a single point of the city from which the observer can embrace the whole city.
According to many visitors, few Italian cities have such natural beauties as Trieste. Due to its enviable position, Trieste has always attracted many artists, who searched for their inspiration in its purple sunrises and fire sunsets. Byron, Charles Nodier, Carducci, are just a few.

Trieste shows the changing of times with ruins that attest to its Roman origins, its alleys in the old neighborhoods, the remains of its medieval walls, and towers, the patrician houses, now poor, battered, but still with a noble character, the legends carved on nude rocks, the wells in the courtyards, and the preserved tombstones with Latin inscriptions.

The city has experienced long years of political extremism, which has sometimes been national irredentism, sometimes a real clash of civilizations. The definitive passage to Italy in 1954 is still alive in the memory of Trieste, during a time when the return to the homeland appeared uncertain. Almost by a miracle in Trieste, just like in other border cities of transit, the constant psychological tension, dictated by the many political upheavals and uncertainties, refined intellectual sensibility and produced fine reflections of intellectuals born here, or that here found their creative habitats: James Joyce, Rainer Maria Rilke, Umberto Saba and Italo Svevo. The legendary Cafes of Trieste are imbued with memories of great conversations and discussions that took place within them. They happened at a time when politics and art, literature and philosophy were discussed in various languages, in a twilight world with an uncertain future that was darkly looming ahead.

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Tuscan Villas

I love Italian villas. They are so charming and full of romance. I am sure you know what I am talking about. The clean and fresh Liberty style of the Twenties, the earlier Neoclassic with its sweeping heights protruding to the sky, the Renaissance with its pastel colors and Italian gardens, the Medieval period, with its brick and stone walls all have a great charm.

But there is a kind of villas that I love the most. Perhaps it does not belong to any specific architectural style, or perhaps to the rural one, if such style exists. At any rate, I am talking about Tuscan villas, those rising in the middle of the luxuriant countryside on top of panoramic hills. Surrounded by well kept fields, woodlands, and water bodies, these villas have a very humble past, one deepening its roots in the land they were built on.

I am indeed charmed away by peasant farmhouses, those with stone walls, comfortably sitting on a green estate with their wide presence and low rising roofs. Large families of laborers lived on the first floor, while on the ground floor the stables hosted cows and horses, the tractors of the past. The floor dividing the stables from the living quarters used to be made of a layer of cotto tiles held by wood pillars and lines of studs. The relative thinness of such layer was achieved on purpose to allow the heat of the stables to flow to the upper floor. A thick ceiling would have isolated the heat in the stable.

These villas had not many comforts, and the Sunday morning bathing, religiously carried out prior to going to church, took place in the stables inside a vat, as this was the warmer room of the house. The fireplace on the first floor was the heart of the house. The large dining room and kitchen was built around the fireplace. It is here that most of the daily life took place. The fireplace was used to cook, it heated the dining room, and often accommodated six or more people inside during colder nights. Here the large family, and often neighbors, gathered to chat and carry on petty hand works and crafts impossible to do during the daylight time, which required to be in the fields. Wood and straw works served to the production of chairs, hats, kitchen utensils and to repair work tools. Stories and local news were told while manual work was carried out, and perhaps this is also how couples could meet each other and create new families.

Bedrooms did not have fireplaces, and the freezing cold beds where warmed up using bed warmers filled with ambers. The mattress was filled with dry corn leaves, and you can imagine that beds catching fire was not a rare happening!

Each time I enter into Tuscan villas I can feel the past. Although nowadays many were renovated and include all comforts, the original soul of the place is still present. At times I like to visit the ruins of an old farmhouse. At first I think it is a pity it was not restored as many other were, but then I can see the signs of abandonment and rediscover many original traits of a rural life that completely disappeared in Tuscany and Italy.

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The Day After....Berlusconi

Traveling through a country does not only involve the often superficial activity of moving from place to place watching the world around you as if you were in a zoo. The real traveler, though short his visit may be, always tries to get to the ore of things, and however a hard job this is, it rewards her much in the end.

Traveling through Italy, or any other country for that matter, also involves talking about its political happenings. Even more so if you are armchair traveling while reading my subjective and instinctively written articles. It is the right way of traveling as it adds a third dimension to your point of view, giving you the instruments to get a rounder picture even on more ephemeral subjects I will be addressing in later posts.

The big news of these days is that, after Papandreu's leave of office in Greece, Berlusconi, Italy's (former) prime minister, resigned from his post to give way to a technical government headed by Mr. Monti.

What is a technical government? Non-Italians like me might have a hard time grasping this concept at first. It is a concept that speaks of Italian culture. This type of government, literally, is one set in place to "get the job done". Yes, it sounds absurd. What are non-technical governments there for, then?

First of all, governments elected through regular elections, such as the one that just fell in Italy, are supposedly formed by politically prepared people that have good leadership. They are managers, but need (economy, medicine, education, transportation) expert consultants to run the show. During the so-called technical government, one that was not elected by the Italian people but appointed by the leaving government and the President of the Republic, you just have these expert consultants running the show. It's like a company downsize, when marketing and PR are trimmed to fuel the R&D department.

Berlusconi's government was really (REALLY!) big in marketing and PR, however lacked much expertise, and the ability to pull it together into a synergistic strategy. The mix was composed of very young ministers, of whom many coming from the show business, others without a properly developed cultural background, but most importantly of frail alliances that always threatened the stability of the government and brought to a stalling legislative motor.

The Lega Nord party especially leveraged on its small number of seats that nevertheless allowed Berlusconi to remain the Prime Minister of Italy, while pushing towards its pet interests at the expense of the whole country.

This brings about the new electoral law that 1.2 million Italians dearly desire to the point of subscribing a referendum request on this matter. You see, in Italy at this stage any party is a big box that gets voted, then filled with all sorts of people. You elect a brand, not the people representing you. This was supposed to create stability in a country that up to the end of the 20th century had had more than fifty governments in less than fifty years with hundreds of parties represented. However, stability (and democracy) was compromised by allowing medium parties to partner up with smaller ones, so to reach the minimum required number of seats to gain the majority and govern. Problem is, these parties often come from very different ideological backgrounds. As a result, and to much dislike of electors, if one wants to vote for the left wing alliance, she will end up giving her vote also to center-right parties participating into the alliance. And if that alliance wins, then you will probably see "your" government act in favor of ideologies totally foreign to its original intents. And this is done just to foster stability (or keep their well-paid seat, as they say in Italy). Otherwise their political allies might abandon the crew and let the boat sink (as Lega Nord continuously threatened to do).

On the part of Italians, Berlusconi's demise was reason to carousel along the streets of many cities, as if Italy had won the World Cup. The vast majority of Italians could not stand his empty promises served on a plate decorated with sexism, racism, egocentrism, bad manners and bad taste anymore. On my part, I will remove the poll on this blog with the question "Do Italians Deserve Berlusconi?" and give it a resounding "no" as an answer.

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All Saints Typical Italian Sweets

All Saints Day is celebrated on November 1 around the world the. It is a big celebration for Christianity, followed by November 2, the All Souls Day, a Christian event that traces its roots in ancient times.
Talking about seasonal cooking, every Italian region has tied these two celebrations to the table. For the most part these are recipes based on seasonal produce such as pumpkin, chestnuts, cabbage, pork, vegetables - especially beans and peas and and dried fruit. In Liguria, the custom is to eat chicken for All Saints to live up to the proverb "All Saints without beak, Christmas will be poor", probably tied to the fact that if you didn't have chicken to eat on All Saints day, by the end of December you would have had little food on your table.
The desserts, however, are certainly the most famous ritual food: in fact, each region has its typical sweet with a name recalling the celebrations.

Bustrengolo from Umbria
Ingredients: 350 g of corn flour, 100 grams of sugar, 50 grams of pine nuts, 100 g of raisins, 4 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil, 1 pinch of salt, 2 apples

Preparation:
Boil a large pot with 1 quart of salted water and add the flour as to make a polenta. Add the oil and mix together. Cook for about twenty minutes, then add the sliced apples, raisins, pine nuts and the sugar. Remove from heat and pour the mixture, which should be rather soft, on a buttered cake mold in a layer about 3 cm thick. Bake in a heated oven at 180 degrees and cook for about half an hour.
It should be eaten cold.

Colva from Puglia
In Puglia, particularly in the areas of Foggia and Barletta, it is typical of the Day of the Dead. The preparation of this cake is made of wheat and pomegranate.

Ingredients:
The kernels of a pomegranate, 1 can cooked corn, 150 grams of chopped walnuts, 150 grams of chopped almonds, white grapes, 100 g dark chocolate, sufficient mulled wine

Preparation:
Drain well the cooked wheat and place it in a bowl. Mix it with the pomegranate seeds, walnuts, almonds, the seeded and peeled grapes, chopped dark chocolate and add just enough mulled wine to mix all the ingredients into a smooth mixture. Serve in bowls.

Castagnaccio from Tuscany (for 6 people)
400 g of chestnut flour, Enough water, enough olive oil, 30 grams of raisins (soaked in warm water), 30 g of pine nuts, 3 tablespoons of sugar, 1 pinch of salt, 1 tablespoon rosemary

Preparation:
In a bowl mix the water with chestnut flour and sugar stirring with a whisk to prevent lumps. Your batter consistency should be quite liquid. Oil a cake mold of 25 cm in diameter with extra virgin olive oil and pour the mixture, pour on top a thin line of olive oil sufficing for two table spoons and finally sprinkle with pine nuts, raisins and rosemary. Bake in a heated oven at 180 degrees for about 40 minutes until the surface becomes dry and opposes resistance when pressed with a finger.

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The Flood in Lunigiana and Cinque Terre

It is such a disastrous sight to see such a lovely place like Cinque Terre being damaged by a massive amount of mud, debris, and water. The little borough of Manarola got almost completely destroyed by the avalanche that slided down from the mountain into the sea. The characteristic colored houses now all lay lifeless and gray of mud. It will take time to bring them back to their life, but the dead ones, buried under meters of sludge, will never be brought back again.

Aulla in Lunigiana is just one of the Tuscan cities to have been hit by the water wall. Each passing year I hear on the Italian news that such disasters could have been avoided. Massive deforestation along bank rivers, riverbeds not being cleaned to preserve river wildlife, concrete layering, wild urbanization, and climatic changes create each year a dangerous cocktail that never fails to explode. This cocktail produces similar effects all over the world. The more the damages produced, the more the intensity of the phenomenon.

Italy is a long and thin country, surrounded by sea, dotted with lakes, wrinkled up by rivers and mountain chains. Its ecosystem is extremely fragile, and constantly menaced by human mistakes and natural disasters such as the recent one.
Scraping rivers destroys wildlife, but not doing it produces blockages bringing to these extreme consequences. How to stop this vicious cycle?

I think there is little to do, as the contemporary strategy is that of building and making money, taking great risks though. The Italian proverb "meglio un uovo oggi che una gallina domani", or better an egg today that a chicken tomorrow seems to be taken very seriously in Italy.

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The Riots of Rome and The Cloudburst

One might think that some sort of religious punishment hit Rome after so much violence struck the city during the "black-block" protests. The water that came down, a staggering 170 millimeters in just few minutes, was not absorbed by the sewage system, and washed away the memories of the riots altogether with the lives of two people.

I do not believe in anything like a superior punisher, even because those that needed to be reprehended for their nonsensical acts were far away from Rome during the cloudburst. To tell you the truth, the cloudburst was quite manageable, and it resulted in much greater issues than it should have just because the city did not spend as much as it should have to clean up its waste water system. In other words, the two deaths could have been easily avoided.

Actually, the mess that resulted from the rioting could also have been avoided. Some say the worst fringes of the protest should have been cracked down more violently, but who knows. From an outsider that relocated to Italy it is sad to see that a pacific protest with 98% of the people just dancing, marching or simply voicing their concerns is completely ruined by that 2% with no intention of building any constructive, meaningful point of view.

I wonder what makes people feel like thrashing such a wonderful city such as Rome. If I were marching along one of the magnificent boulevards in Rome I would jut stay all the time with my nose up looking at the monuments and palaces, no matter if ancient. The center of the city is just splendid, mixing a variety of Classic, Neoclassic, Liberty, Roman, and Medieval styles. It seems like you are spending time on a time machine. But can time be perceived on a time machine? Of course not. Time in Rome passes by so quickly that you can find yourself at the end of the day and not remember what you did and where you went to.

My advice: let others riot, and the sky pour water. You just head towards the nearest "Trattoria" and feast in front of a plate full of "Bucatini Amatriciana", "Bruschetta" or "Abbacchio". When you are done the sky will be clear and the streets safe again!

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Termoli in Molise: A Short Overview

Termoli, a well known tourist resort on the coast of Molise, is an industrialized city that continues to grow. At the same time it preserves many elements from the past, an important witness to a historical reality of great prestige. The town has numerous treasures belonging to an ancient past as the imposing Cathedral, the ancient village, dating from the Twelfth century and showcasing a Romanesque-Apulian style, and the Swabian castle of Frederick II.

The watchtowers along the beach, recalling the ancient Saracen invasions were reconstructed according to their original design and this is now a typical meeting point to taste the delicious local seafood dishes.

The ancient heart of the city is perched atop a cliff that falls steeply into the sea. The original name of the ancient center is exactly Old Village (Borgo Vecchio). It looks like a lovely walled citadel, made up of squares and streets. Among them is the most emblematic Vico Il Castello, one of the narrowest city alleys in Europe.

The Castle is conventionally defined as Swabian, probably due to a restructuring dating from 1247, ordered by Frederick II. The linearity of the structure and its defensive characteristics suggest that it was built in Norman times (XI century) at the site where there was a tower of the Lombard period. Since 1885, the Castle of Termoli was included among the national monuments and elected as a regional history museum.

At the center of town stands the Cathedral, built in Romanesque-Pugliese style over ancient ruins of a Roman temple, whose foundations date back probably to the Sixth century. Inside are the relics of St. Timothy and St. Basso, patron of the city. The cathedral is also renowned for its splendid mosaics.

A splendid feature is the wide view over the port offered by the broadwalk at whose side stands the Torretta.

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Anchovies to The Rescue: Bagna Caoda (or Cauda)

Today we are in Piedmont. It is a northern region of Italy, near Liguria and Lombardy, and one rich of many strong characteristics. Its distinctive dialect, rich of French influences, its important historic role, with Turin as the royal headquarters and the first capital of Italy, and its cuisine, so rich of surprisingly tasty dishes.

Today's trip will let you discover one of the most famous dishes of Piedmont and northern Italy. I am talking about the Bagna Caoda (or Cauda), a very simple dish of peasant origins. It consists of a thick anchovy sauce placed in a casserole in the middle of the table and eaten with fresh vegetables or on bread slices. It was a common dinner during the cold winter of poor farmers.
As for other dishes such as polenta, the custom of communal eating from the center of the table has pragmatic origins: dishes were few or completely lacking, plus letting each one help himself took away work from the housekeeping wife (who had also been working around the house all day). With time this custom has remained as a convivial way of sharing a meal among friends and family members.

The Recipe of Bagna Caoda (Cauda)

Ingredients: for four people you will need 400 grams of salt anchovies, 250 grams of garlic, one fourth of a liter of milk and one glass of good olive oil.
As for vegetables and other ingredients you have the choice of a variety of your favorite ones, but you should try to get cardoons, a delicious combination with the sauce.

Preparation:
Gently boil the garlic with milk until you can smash it with the gentle pressure of a fork. While you are cooking the garlic, fillet and clean the anchovies removing the central fishbone. Rinse them thoroughly in garlic to remove the excess salt. In a separate casserole, preferably earthenware, pour the olive oil and when it is warm set the anchovies to melt in the oil. Then pour the garlic and some cooking milk inside. Now mix in while cooking on low-medium heat, then process with a hand blender until you get a very smooth cream. Keep simmering until the sauce becomes moderately thick.

The preparation of vegetables is quite simple. Clean an abundant selection of your favorite ones and serve them along the Bagna Caoda sauce. If you have cardoons, the preparation is a tad longer, but definitely rewarding. Remove the leaves until you are left with just the stems. Parboil them for one minute in salty water, then remove the harder fibers gently scraping with a knife, then serve.

You can serve the sauce in separate heated bowls or the traditional way in the cooking earthenware casserole at the center of the table. Each one will deep his vegetables in.

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Venice: Fun, Romantic, Inimitable

Elegant, precious, unique, fun, romantic: this is Venice, jewel of the Italian tourist scene. Here churches, palaces, ancient bridges, monuments and squares, tell the tale of great artistic and cultural vibrancy that marked and still marks the history of this city.

The heart of Venice is the beautiful Piazza San Marco, the most elegant drawing room of Europe, surrounded by works of unquestionable value: the imposing bell tower and the Basilica with its five portals decorated with marble and mosaics anticipate the luxury and richness of the interiors. The Palazzo Ducale, symbol of the golden times of the Serenissima, as Venice used to be called, the Mori Tower, better known as the Clock Tower, a masterpiece of engineering that has been keeping the time in Venice for centuries. Nearby is Campo Santo Stefano with the homonymous church, one of the largest in Venice.
From the square the island of San Giorgio Maggiore is visible together with the high bell tower that rises from the monumental complex of the former Benedictine Monastery, a masterpiece of the great architects of the period including the famous Andrea Palladio.

A true open-air museum, visited by boat or gondola along the Grand Canal, the main "road" of Venice, which starts at the Punta della Dogana, the ancient port of Venice with its distinctive triangular shape, today used, together with Palazzo Grassi, as Center for Contemporary Art. Do not miss the Peggy Guggenheim Collection, Palazzo Venier de'Leoni, the most prestigious collection of works of art of the Twentieth century.
Further along are other important museums: the Accademia Galleries, hosted by the School of the majestic Grand Charity of the same name, that includes the church and the monastery and the Ca' Rezzonico, one of the most beautiful Renaissance buildings housing the Museum of the Venetian Eighteenth century.

On the right side of the Grand Canal, also accessible through the Rialto Bridge, you arrive in the area of ​​the districts of San Polo, Santa Croce and Dorsoduro where some of the most famous "campi" of Venice can be found surrounded by beautiful religious buildings and palaces: San Rocco, where there is one of the great schools of ancient Venice and the church dedicated to the same saint; the famous Basilica Santa Maria Gloriosa dei Frari, one of the most important Franciscan buildings; San Polo and San Giacomo dall'Orio with the homonymous church in the center decorated with beautiful works of Renaissance Venice; San Sebastian masterfully decorated by Paolo Veronese; San Pantalon and San Nicolo dei Mendicoli with one of the oldest churches in the city and Santa Maria della Salute.

From Piazza San Marco, across the famous Bridge of Sighs (Ponte dei Sospiri), which offers wonderful views of the lagoon, you arrive in the Castello district, rich in architectural and artistic masterpieces. It is known that the "campi" of Venice are the historic squares, often adorned by important monuments in the center and dominated by the imposing and magnificent religious buildings from which they are named. In this district there are very interesting examples: the church of Santi Giovanni e Paolo, where state funerals are carried out; the church of Santa Maria dei Miracoli, a splendid example of Renaissance architecture; the church of San Zaccaria and the church of San Giovanni in Bragora, considered by many one of the most beautiful churches in the city, and the church of Santa Maria Formosa born from a project of Codussi.

Continuing to walk through the streets of Venice, do not miss a visit to the largest Arsenal in the world, built in the Twelfth century and later enlarged by the great political and commercial development at the School of Venice and San Giorgio degli Schiavoni with some of the finest works of Carpaccio.
Cannaregio is located the Campo della Madonna dell'Orto, one of the few remaining examples of ancient flooring in a herringbone pattern, on which the homonymous church decorated by the great Tintoretto and the Scuola dei Mercanti are located.
Another magnificent example of Renaissance architecture is the Church of St. John Chrysostom, the last work of Mauro Codussi. In the ancient mansion Ca' d'Oro houses is a valuable art collection with works from the Venetian school.

Around Venice there is a corollary of islands: Burano, famous for the production of lace, Murano for its glass, Pellestrina characterized by sand dunes and tall reeds, Torcello, one of the oldest human settlements in the area.
Beautiful scenery can be found at the north side of the lagoon, characterized by sand of many shades of color changing with the light of the sun. The same effect can be found on the Dolomiti mountains, that have created this coast along the course of millennia. This is where you will find some of the tourist pearls of the Province of Venice; Caorle, with its narrow Calli (lanes), which are interwoven among the pretty pastel houses; Jesolo, with entertainment and nightlife; Bibione and its pine forest that stretches down to the beach; and Cavallino, the leading European location for "open air" tourism.
Along the banks of the Brenta are scattered many of the aristocratic Venetian luxury villas, built between 1500 and 1700, a symbol of wealth and prosperity of the Venetian time. Some of the best architects and painters of the time, such as Palladio and the Pilgrims, were the architects of these wonderful works of architecture.
The same we find in the magnificent surroundings of Mirano, in the Terra of Tiepolo, named in honor of the famous family of artists. During the Venetian rule these territories had a period of cultural development during which were built mansions and manor houses that can still be admired in all their glory.

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Sardinia Beaches near Nuoro

The coastal area of Ogliastra is located in the central-eastern part of Sardinia in the province of Nuoro. Departing from Olbia you can reach it driving along the scenic ss125 ss131 or the highway to Nuoro, built in 1997. Other access points are Tortoli airport, which connects the island to the main seasonally national and European airports, and the port of Arbatax.
To the north of this area is the magnificent Sisine Coast, which with its nearly two thousand feet of cliffs is considered the highest in the Mediterranean. Impressive cliffs of bare stone suddenly appear, covered with luxuriant vegetation. Hidden and mysterious fractures and cracks in the coast are frequently populated by twisted, ancient junipers.

The limestone cliffs continue up to Capo di Monte Santu, which closes to the south the Gulf of Orosei. A limestone section leading south starts here and slowly changes into splendid red porphyry, reaching its maximum charm with the famous Red Cliffs, unique in the world, next to the port of Arbatax.

Along all this stretch of coast the landscape is ever changing. Always different and unique charming beaches display granite and porphyry shapes of a special beauty. The peaceful surroundings, crystal clear sea water and sand of magnificent colors are the accents that will make you fall in love with the beaches of Sardinia.

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The Thermal Waters of Ischia to Relax

Ischia is a small island of Campania, in southern Italy. It sits in the Gulf of Naples, and is very famous for its tremendous scenic impact, natural environment, clean waters, good fish and cooking, characteristic towns, and lastly, but most importantly, its thermal baths.

The thermal waters of Ischia are well known and used since ancient times. The first Euboeans settlers in the Eighth century BC appreciated and used hot springs waters on the island. The Greeks used the thermal waters to restore the spirit and the body and as a remedy for healing the aftereffects of war wounds. They attributed supernatural powers to the waters and vapors that flowed from the bowels of the Earth. It is not a chance by each spa resort temples dedicated to gods like Apollo at Delphi were built. Strabo, a Greek historian and geographer, mentioned the island of Ischia and the virtues of its hot springs.

If the Greeks were the first people to know the powers of the thermal waters, the Romans brought them to be a means of healing and relaxation through the creation of profitable public baths by the numerous springs of the island. However, no lavish bath establishments were ever built, as opposed to Rome and other ancient thermal baths centers.This was probably due to frequent volcanic eruptions and earthquakes that often violently shook the island.

The decline of Rome coincided with the abandonment of the use of bathing even in Ischia. There are indeed no traces of thermal spas usage during the middle ages. A strong impulse to spa usage was given during the Renaissance by Giulio Iasolino, professor at the University of Naples, who realized the therapeutic potential of thermal waters. He cataloged all the baths of Ischia and the beneficial effects of each one, bringing more and more people to cure ailments with success. If you want to read more on this, get his book "De Rimedi Naturali che sono nell'Isola di Pithecusa; oggi detta Ischia". Iasolino freed the thermal waters of Ischia from its magical aura and the success of these treatments brought a group of noble Neapolitan philanthropists to build in Casamicciola the "Pio Monte della Misericordia", the largest spa in Europe during those years, allowing less wealthy people to enjoy the therapeutic qualities of the local hot springs.

Famous historic people like Garibaldi, Cavour and Toscanini visited the baths for their therapeutic properties, making Ischia even more renown internationally.
Thermal tourism started in the Sixties when people from all over the world started arriving to Ischia mostly seeking a healthy relax in a beautiful Mediterranean setting.

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Puglia, Apulia, and the Fabulous Gargano Region

A set of rocky mountains on a promontory extends into the southern Adriatic sea, forms one of the four subregions of Apulia, the Gargano.

The highest peak is Mount Calvo with its 1056 meters. The promontory is bordered by the Gulf of Manfredonia, Vieste, Peschici, Rodi Garganico to the south and the Adriatic Islands of Tremiti to the north.
The Gargano, is occupied almost entirely by mountains and large plateaus, the most famous of all is the Umbra Forest. But the Gargano is not just mountains, indeed it is certainly best known for its nearly two hundred kilometers of coastline. The coast is made of beaches, pine forests, creeks, cliffs, dunes, fjords and caves.

The Gargano region in Apulia extends from Vieste to San Menaio, Peschici to Mattinata and from Rodi Garganico to the Gulf of Manfredonia and Margherita di Savoia up to the gorgeous Tremiti Islands.

In Monte Sant'Angelo sul Gargano is the Basilica of San Giovanni Rotondo and San Michele Arcangelo, a new church dedicated to Padre Pio, who was sanctified a few years back.

A holiday in Gargano and Puglia also means you have the chance to admire the beauty of the Gargano National Park. The Gargano National Park, with 120.000 hectares of lagoons, mountains, sandy beaches, marine reserves, villages and forests is among the most beautiful in Italy, but also sadly threatened by the irresponsible behavior of unscrupulous people.
The area also offers its visitors a rich calendar of events such as Peschijazz, the Piano Festival of Gargano, Gargano motorbike rally for bike lovers, and many culinary events.

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The Charm of Tuscan Villas

I have recently traveled to Tuscany, and what stroke me most about it was the splendid yet simple architecture of some of its rural houses.

My tour brought me in the provinces of Siena, Florence and Lucca. While the latter area hosts many upscale properties, especially near the town of Bagni di Lucca, I liked best the stone wall rural houses. Those sun-baked walls surrounded by quiet, lovingly tended to gardens with blossoming flowers and bees hopping from roses, to dandelions, to fluffy geraniums talked to me of old people sitting outside, working the fields, enjoying the simple things in life. How peaceful it made me feel!

Nowadays the majority of even the most rustic villas and farmhouses in Tuscany have been remodeled to be some of the best properties you can find in Italy. Their interiors are as charming as the outdoors. Villa owners really put a lot of love and a great deal of effort into making these homes the perfect nest to live everyday.

Most villas I have visited featured handmade, originally Tuscan style furniture from the past century. The walls of the kitchen displayed a nice set of utensils that were once of everyday use, but are now some kind of beautiful domestic economy dinosaur to be just admired. Will there ever be a time I own a villa in Tuscany?

My heart skipped a bit when I visited a very old farmer house with one of those sit-in fireplaces. Those are really huge and can fit several people inside. Their purpose was to accommodate the fire, the cooking pot hanging from a chain over live ambers, and two benches, one on each side of the fire, to welcome family members and neighbors. They would just sit there telling stories, or doing some little manual work. It was the most peaceful time of the day, in the warmest place of the house. They would build up some heat before going to their bedrooms where there was no heating. I would so love a villa in Tuscany like that! I would light up my fire every night in winter, and although I might not sit inside all the time, I'd love to get people to come over and have a nice chat by the fire.

Tuscan villas will always hold a special place in my heart. I do really hope I will be able to live in one some day!

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Italy Eco Friendly Aperitif: Sugheritivo

Since 2011 there is an interesting news regarding aperitifs in Italy. It is the sugheritivo!

Aperitif is a very popular dolce-vita-style moment of the day in Italy. After a day at work, and before returning home for dinner, Italians often stop at bars, wineries, and cocktail bars to have a drink munching on something while entertaining into pleasant conversations with friends and coworkers. It is a very old tradition in Italy, so much that Crivel, an Italian composer and songwriter, in 1932 wrote the song "L'Ora del Campari", or "It's Time for Campari", the still nowadays very popular vermouth. The song states that after a tedious day at work finally the liberating time of Campari has come!

In recent years aperitifs were transformed into more substantial food events with elaborated appetizers of all kinds, so much that they started to be called aperi-dinners! By the way, if you are out and about an Italian city, and do not feel like returning to your hotel for a dinner or going to some restaurant, you can stop and have a quite inexpensive flat fee aperi-dinner, usually lasting until 11 PM. The average price is 5 euros per person.

What is the sugheritivo? You could translate it into aperi-cork. Cork wood is indeed at the center of this new eco-friendly trend. After the new silicon corks entered the market with clear intents to replace the more expensive cork wood, producers and consumers discovered the poor quality of silicon. Moreover, silicon is impossible to recycle and does not degrade for millenniums. Cork wood is much better for wine. It allows the bottle to "breathe" allowing gradual air exchange and fosters the good aging of wine. Most importantly, cork is 100% recyclable, and can be utilized in many ways. Plus, regions such as Sardinia live on cork woods producing tons of this precious material each year and allowing these trees to continue a healthy life.

When going to aperi-corks, or sugherivo, bring along a bottle cork, and you will receive a free glass of wine. Corks will then be recycled appropriately. And remember, usually mistrust wine bottles with silicon corks. That is the first hint you may be drinking cheap wine.

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Pictures of Italy

Some pictures of Italy: Rome, Sardinia, Florence, Tuscany, Sicily, Cremona, the Alps, Genoa, Urbino, Matera, Umbria, Monteriggioni are displayed below. You can play at recognizing these landmarks, or just admire their beauty. Enjoy!

Click on them, they are quite large in full view.

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The Last Glass of Wine

It does not have anything to do with Italy, or maybe, somehow, it does.
Amy Winehouse died today, and this saddened me. I am not a big fan of her, and I personally could do without with all this Sixties revival.

So why am I writing about this? Simply because this 27 years old girl died in a way that shows a life of suffering, lots of it. I am sure a lot of people die after suffering. I do not know them, but I knew Amy Winehouse because she was famous, and so do you. So I am writing about this.

I have no idea why these kids become famous and then trash themselves to death. Kurt Cobain did the same, like others. Their solitude becomes amplified after becoming famous. Everyone thinks that fame and money give felicity and human warmth.

Massimo Troisi, an Italian actor and director that you may remember for the movie Il Postino, The Postman, once said that fame only amplifies your character: if you are stupid you just become extremely stupid, if you feel left alone, you just become terribly lonely. It seems easy to see how someone not equipped with a strong personality may lose touch with reality when surrounded by people relating to them only for profit an business.

I don't know her story. I don't care if Amy Winehouse has had a tear-jerking life prior to becoming famous, or was just a spoiled child of rock. To see suffering makes me think. Walking the streets and seeing the poster of her only Italian date in Lucca on July 17, canceled for health reasons shortly before it was to happen, saddens me even more.

The last glass ow wine goes to her, toasting to fragility in a world that consecrates porcelain icons on high altars of incredible instability. So they generate more attention and money when falling and crashing down.

PS: A few days after Amy Winehouse death I am walking around and I see tourists taking pictures besides her poster advertising her only Italian concert, which was supposed to be in Lucca on July 17, but never happened. I see adults and kids posing besides her picture, and also see people taking pictures of just the poster. I guess it is a way to grasp the last pieces of her "alive", before time deletes all everyday signs of her, inescapably confining her into the realm of the dead.

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Transportation News in Italy

There are some nice and important news for those that will be moving around in Italy in the future. Whether you are coming to live in Italy (as I did), or are just visiting, you should be aware of them. Some are temporary changes for the summer, some other are transportation laws that are here to stay.

Let's start with the summer news. If you are moving around inside Italy using a train, the Italian train authority decided to increase the number of fast train availability with 16 more trains each day. The Freccia Rossa, this is the name of the high velocity trains in Italy, will provide 16 more high speed connections throughout the territory in order to supply a more efficient and comfortable traveling experience during the high affluence summer months.

Now the laws that are here to stay, which only interest those that will be driving inside Italy. You should know that jaywalking (illegal or reckless pedestrian street crossing) is not a crime in Italy, and now even the less so. Beware of pedestrians at traffic lights, as if you hit one even when pedestrians have the red light, you will be held fully responsible. Does it make sense? Probably not, it may in some cases, however you just need to know it, so keep it in mind.

Another new law (this time in your favor) states that when you are driving on a road and hit a wild animal the responsibility is not upon you but on who is in charge of the maintenance of that specific road. Remember to make your rights heard.

Those that will be, or already are, living in Florence, Tuscany and have children going to school and driving motorcycles, should know that the city of Florence will give away free helmets to all high school students in Florence.

Finally some good news on in-town transportation. Bike sharing in Italy is among the booming phenomena that in recent years has brought average national bike usage from 2% to 9%. Legambiente, the national NGO promoting a series of behaviors for a sustainable lifestyle, provides the ten rules a city must follow for an efficient and successful bikesharing experience.

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Matera's Sassi

Matera is in Basilicata in the Southern part of Italy. It is famous for its cave-town with houses built in the stone walls of rocky hills. These houses are called Sassi (stones). When you get on the spot is like being in the most classic nativity scene, and observing the beautiful Paleolitic age houses you realize their hut-like appearance adds to the fascination of this unique setting.

These houses are still inhabited, but have not always been famous. There was a time they were considered an infamous state of living symbol. The poorest people lived here, not even the faith in God had reached these places up to not long ago. Animals and people lived in these cave houses together. Up to the first half of the 20th century there was no sewage or other basic hygienic measures.
Finally the government relocated the people in new housing little far away.

Came 1993 and UNESCO declared them a world heritage site, increasing Matera's popularity in the world. Many houses are not standing the toll of time after abandonment, but many have been restored and transformed into homes, restaurants and hotels.

To have a splendid view of these stone cave houses visit the so-called Belvedere opposite the Sassi. Dusk is the best time to enjoy the sight, with the red sun melting the contours of the rocks and exalting the profile of the cathedral above the city. A first glance of this spectacle and you immediately imagine epic battles and scenes of ancient life.

Trivia:
Actually, there is a famous movie that was shot here. Do you know which one? The first three to to write the correct reply in the comments get a special mention!

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Godfather Movie Sets in Sicily

Godfather movie fans all over the world are always eager to see what the real places where the movies were shot look like. Whether you are a moviegoer, a Godfather trilogy fan or just saw the movies, this is going to be interesting. Let alone that Mafia is a totally different thing nowadays from what the movies portray (including the Sopranos). Some details still apply, but mostly that is a romantic portray of reality.

I have no understanding for those fascinated with Mafia. Again, forget about movies. Feeling in constant instability cancels your right to live. No white dresses or "gessato" style. Just nitty-gritty, plain-old street muggers with dirty looks and no style. This is Mafia. Stay out.

But of course you do not run in Mafia at every street corner, and even if you at times do, you won't even realize. Just do not go looking for it!
So visit Sicily safely anjoying its beauties.

If you are a Godfather nostalgic, Corleone is the first epic city for you. The family name bound to it says it all. The Corleonesi Mafia clan does really exist.
Corleone is an extremely pretty town you should visit. You will forget the Mafia ugliness while just walking through its monument rich streets.

The movie set are Forza d'Agrò and Savoca, near the wonderful Taormina. Visit all three, but expect Taormina to be the most touristic one. However, its beauty deserves your time.
This is the wedding church in Savoca.

In Savoca go to Bar Vitelli, where a scene of the movie was shot.

Again, do not expect to see gangsters in the streets, but your passion for the Godfather will surely lead to know the true, unforgettable and unexpected face of Sicily.

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Sicilian Cassata

Looking for the Sicilian Cassata recipe?

As I found on http://www.academiabarilla.com/italian-recipes/step-step-recipes/cassata-siciliana.aspx, among the many regional Italian recipes Cassata is a typical Sicilian dessert with a long history and flavorful. It is a medium difficulty recipe, guided step by step. In no time you can learn to prepare this crown jewel of Italy and Sicily.
This dessert is more for winter days, during which you can achieve a better preparation of it. Moreover, it is a rich recipe that will give more nutrients during colder months.

Grab a baking pan of 7 to 8 inches in size. Here the ingredients: 5 oz marzipan, 1 lb ricotta cheese, 7 oz confectioners sugar, 3 ½ oz candied fruit, 3 oz chocolate drops, ⅛ oz vanilla, 3 ½ oz dark chocolate, melted, 5 oz sponge cake, 3 ½ tablespoons of Rum.

For the icing you will need 5 oz sugar and 1 egg white and 3 ½ oz candied fruit to garnish.

Using a rolling pin flatten the marzipan to a thickness of 4 millimeters.
Now dust the pan using powdered sugar and use a knife to line up the border of the marzipan with that of the pan. Prior to cutting make sure the dough adheres perfectly to the pan.
Smolder the chocolate at bain-marie, then use a brush to spread it over the marzipan.
Now cut thin stripes of sponge cake and use them to line the marzipan. Then use a brush to spread half the rum on the sponge cake.
Now mix in a bowl the ricotta, sugar, chocolate drops, candied fruit, and vanilla.
Spread the filling inside the mold.
Now cover up with the remainder sponge cake then brush with the remainder rum.
Prepare the glaze whisking together sugar and egg white, then remove the cassata from the oven pan and glaze it uniformly. Chill in the fridge for an hour then add the candied fruits to garnish.

That's it! You Have your Cassata! A passito di Pantelleria goes along with it just perfectly.

Here the pictures of the procedure:

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Touring Rome

If you are traveling to Rome then you need to take into account several aspects. The first thing is to plan right, then you'll have a fantastic time in what is the most amazing locations of the world. You must plan your means of transportation to get there, how long you want to stay, the hotel where to stay, what to visit, and other things. If you want a fantastic journey in Rome, you need a clever planning.

How to get to Rome
Rome can be reached many ways. You may fly in to Fiumicino or to Ciampino airports. Fiumicino is much better serviced though, and you will get a train directly into town. Cheaper flights get to Ciampino, which does have a shuttle bus to Rome.

Transportation inside the Italian capital
If a car rental worries you, or you drove in with your car, then you may use public transportation, leaving your car at a long stay parking lot. Buses, trams, subway, and taxis provide for plenty of alternatives to your car and relieve you from worries. Green buses are a great transport in Rome. During the night there are more than 20 lines running the city. Taxis are also a good option, and they can also be used as tour guides for an extra charge. They know the spots you should not miss and are to be trusted.

Accommodations in Rome
A huge city such as Rome offers hundreds of places to stay at for all budgets. If you go the traveled booking route, you will get more expensive hotels, but if you put in some effort you can get better deals. Among the places to consider are the Westin Excelsior Rome in Via Veneto, and is considered a kind of monument. Or the Baglioni, again in Via Veneto, near Piazza di Spagna. Finally the Hotel Albani is in the Parioli area, set in a place to remember.

What to do in Rome
Rome offers plenty to see. Needless to say, you can spend a month visiting and just see a glimpse of it all. The cornerstones are St. Peter’s Basilica plus the Vatican. Then you have the Roman Forum, the Colosseum, and the Palantine Slope. The history of this city is unbelievable, rich of well preserved Roman architecture.

A better way to enjoy the archaelogic sites of Rome is by purchasing the Roma Archeologica card, including a series of historic locations throughout Rome that are must see. The card will give you access to the Colosseum, Palatino and also Palatino Memorial, the Normal Roman Museums, Terme Di Caracalla, Cecilia Metella, plus the Villa Dei Quintili. Must-see museums are Palazzo Altemps, Palazzo Massimo, Terme di Diocleziano, and also the Cripta Balbi.

Rome Shopping
Looking to just relax and walk around doing some serious shopping? Then you must go to Piazza di Spagna and Spanish Scalinata. This section of Rome literally bursts with all kinds of shops, bars, restaurants, and markets. These are very characteristic of the city and should be visited. Just remember that this is the reign of pickpockets, so keep your values tight.

Rome deserves several days to be appreciated. Do not commit the mistake to go for a daytrip, as you will just be exhausted, confused, and hungry, trading good food for the first tourist joint at hand. You will hate it! Plan ahead instead. Choose your places in advance, then go straight to the point, and always remember to leave some space for the unforeseeable and unexpected, which is the zest of life!

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My Take on the Palio of Siena

The Palio of Siena on July 2 was run after a long day of heavy downpour that almost flooded the city and turned the Piazza del Campo into an enormous sludge field. So much water threatened to make it impossible for the Palio be run on that day. It would have been quite tragic for many tourists that usually book until the very day of the Palio and leave the day after. This did not happen and everyone could enjoy the Palio. In this edition, however, there was an event that cast a shadow over the event. It was something quite different from last year's accident that saw a French tourist killed by a piece of stone that detached from a terrace during a dinner. However, it was quite just as dramatic. During one of the test runs a horse hit a stone post at one corner of Piazza del Campo injuring itself to death and overthrowing the jokey that reported minor consequences.
This of course brought up strong protests by animal rights organizations.

While I think what happened is a tragic accident that should be avoided at all costs, I also do not feel that the Palio of Siena should stop as a consequence of similar accidents. However, some things should be changed. For example these marble posts should be equipped with some serious shock absorption system, not visually offensive or cumbersome for horses. Moreover, it is a tradition for jockeys to be held free of any responsibility on their doings, especially in case of accidents such as the one in question. I think that since they are paid dearly by the "contrade" that engage them, they should be held responsible for such errors, especially during such an unimportant event as a test run, which has none of the tremendous tension and heat of the Palio race. If a driver has to pay for its misbehavior, why should a jockey be any different? This would make them more cautious for sure. Remember that these guys are the equivalent of extreme sports champions, since they run with silk trousers over an unsaddled sweaty horse zipping at full speed through a narrow cornered path flanked by little or no protection whatsoever. If you expect them to be cautious for their own sake, forget about it!

I do agree that the Palio should do anything to avoid animals any suffering, but at the same time much was done, especially thanks to protesters in favor of animal rights, such as the institution of a residence for injured horses that can continue to graze although not able to run anymore. Moreover, these occurrences are quite rare, fortunately. Much more effort should be put into completely obliterating commercial animal races (horses, dogs, etc.) that are tied to pure economic return and massacre thousands of young animals at the first sign of weakness or minor injury. The Palio is bound to a long history and tradition, and a horse is given maximum respect, and hailed as a hero when victorious.

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